notes from Greece (after the fact) - Day 1

anyone who wonders why making Guantanamo detainees maintain fixed positions without sleep for long periods of time constitutes torture never flew coach in an aging 737-300 for 12 hours after one hour of sleep. (i'm not saying that air travel approximates our country's interrogation techniques, just that it can take a lot less than you'd think to weaken your spirit.) 24 hours after i left my home (and after only 4 additional hours of sleep), i arrived at Christos' home in Kifissia, Athens. (who's Christos? a professor at Berkeley, a key member of my "band", and one of the most surprising and awesome people i have had the pleasure to meet.) i was greeted by Efi, the Papadimitriou family's long-time friend and household assistant. she showed me around, made me dinner-breakfast-lunch (they barely feed you in coach on airplanes, even when you're at their mercy for 17 hours), offered me everything in the kitchen, and told me a bit about her history with the family. this was all done in pantomime since Efi doesn't speak a word of English and i speak only 20 words in Greek (almost all food words).

at Christos' place i had a room to myself off the kitchen, which is where Scarlett hangs out. Scarlett is a Persian that looks like a cross between Mr. Bigglesworth (pre-freezing) and Salvador Dali. my picture doesn't fully capture the unlikely curve of her whiskerstache.

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(for those interested, there's an entire book on Dali's mustache.)

i laid down for a couple hours, and dragged myself out of bed around 5pm (an attempt to get on Greek time). after a "shower" where 1/3 of the water ended up on the other side of the bathroom (i still don't understand the fixtures in Greece), i caught the subway to the Acropolis. i got there too late to get in that night, so i walked all around and then up the hill across from it. there i sat on a warm rock and watched the colors of the setting sun reflect off the Parthenon. after dark i walked through the Thission area back to the Metro. it was a weeknight, but the cafes, bars, and restaurants were packed and the night was filled with Greek conversation and laughter. only a few hours in Greece, and already it was amazing.